GENERAL INFORMATION
Dapur Babah, the first culinary outing by Indonesia's
acclaimed Tugu Hotels Group, is set in a pair of refurbished 1940s
shophouses located just off the city's central Merdeka Square on
Jalan Veteran 1. This historic location was once one of old Batavia
's most fashionable streets, with most of its buildings owned by
a rich sheik from Jemen. The restaurant exudes a floating out-of-the-world
kind of romance from its every single corner, filled with beautiful
artworks.
Dapur Babah specializes in “Babah” cuisine, original
recipes derived from the cross-cultural marriage of Chinese settlers
and native Javanese women that emerged in the colonial area. Recipes
and ingredients have been thoroughly researched from around the
island, creating a medley of classic Peranakan specialties.
Anhar Setjadibrata, owner of Tugu Hotels and a
long-time collector of Indonesian antiques, with daughter Lucienne,
designed the restaurant and adjoining bar to capture the rich nuances
of early-20 th -century Java. The result is a menagerie of period
mementoes and paraphernalia, such as reclaimed teak furniture, rustic
housewares (scales, meat grinders, pestles and mortars), and the
signboard advertising Hap Liong Tailor, the shophouses original
tenant. Rooms are painted in bold pastel-crayon combinations of
red and green, black and red, purple and blue, while stone statues
of Chinese, Hindu, and Buddhist gods smile down on dinners.
All of these aspects of the culture are celebrated
at Dapur Babah, which is elegantly decorated with photos of prominent
Babah families, some fabulously wealthy, such as the powerful sugar
baron Oei Tiong Ham and many other artifacts of the colonial period,
such as bulky VOC emblem from the 17 th century and a room separator
from the Ming dynasty. At the back of the establishment is a semi-open
terrace, inspired by the kitchen of the Babah Oei family, with a
statue of a kitchen goddess, old Chinese glass lanterns and other
kitchen utensils from the period. |